so in order to fix this espresso machine from finland I need a 220V 1450W power source. I'm wondering if I can build a step up transformer from a flyback transformer from an old CRT. I know it will put out what I need but I don't know if it can sustain it. Thoughts?
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27actually if I'm spending the time to fix it, I could just convert it to 110V
@jeffcliff It will still run but the heating element wont trigger unless it has 220V, I am looking at it's electrical diagrams now wondering if I could just step it down to 110V. her house has a dedicated outlet for this one appliance that is 220V 30A single phase, they had somebody wire it when they moved in. this machine is like 21? or 22 years old
@graf @jeffcliff You just trying to test it? Must be 220v around your place somewhere.
@AsukaNeko @jeffcliff I have single and two phase but when you are troubleshooting something it's a pain in the ass to drag it to 1. the kitchen or 2. the basement. I could build myself a jerry rig cable but I'd rather do it proper. if I'm going to spend this much time fixing it I might as well convert it for NA
@graf @jeffcliff If it can be converted to 120 that's the way to go, the amps will double on that heating element.
Not sure if step up or down transformer would handle the amp shift.
23 amps at 120 is a merciless pull.
Not sure if step up or down transformer would handle the amp shift.
23 amps at 120 is a merciless pull.
@AsukaNeko @jeffcliff No I think I can do it with a single step down transformer it's not a massive pull (1450w under full load) plus they sold a NA model in 2000 so there could even be a dipswitch somewhere and I don't have to hardwire anything. I'll know more in the morning when I fully take it apart
@graf Are we talking about a power brick and cable or an internal part?
@internetfreak no in europe they have different power, 220V is common and they use stepdown transformers in their products in the case where it's a western product requiring 110V. I'm going to call her in the morning and ask if she would be upset with me if I wired it for both 220V and 110V. It's easier for me to modify the device than to rewire my house for 1.5kW @ 220V single phase
@graf
i have done this before on appliances. it's mass production for a global market. open the machine and get the specs on the PSU. The equivalent PSU for your local supply will be ten or twenty bucks.
i have done this before on appliances. it's mass production for a global market. open the machine and get the specs on the PSU. The equivalent PSU for your local supply will be ten or twenty bucks.
@graf
auto switching psu 110/240 for global market. they're commonplace and should be inexpensive.
@internetfreak
auto switching psu 110/240 for global market. they're commonplace and should be inexpensive.
@internetfreak
@tobias @internetfreak they moved with this unit they bought in 2000 to canada in 2012. the house they are in currently they paid an electrician to install a single phase 30A 220V outlet, just one, in the kitchen where this device was. I checked the wiring and I checked the fuse panel to make sure and yeah its a full 30A circuit for this machine which is fucking crazy. I don't see any dipswitches but I am going to fully decontrsuct it this week and figure it out
@graf Wonβt that make it really slow? I thought the reason you donβt do kettles was because it takes forever to boil?
@Flick what? kettles are a staple in canada. this machine is designed to keep the water boiling so it is always ready
@graf Huh, fair enough. Itβs folk wisdom here that thatβs why yanks do weird shit like use water from the hot tap to make instant coffee, because kettles donβt work well with the lower power, but I guess itβs wrong! TIL.
@AsukaNeko @skylar @Flick I *think* it draws 8A around 1500W @ 220V but it's also 50hz
@graf @AsukaNeko @Flick motors might be upset about the frequency difference, but i don't think a heating element would
sometimes kitchen appliances derive the clock source from the grid frequency and get wildly inaccurate over just a few hours on a less stable source like generator power, 10 whole hz would be a far greater difference
sometimes kitchen appliances derive the clock source from the grid frequency and get wildly inaccurate over just a few hours on a less stable source like generator power, 10 whole hz would be a far greater difference
@graf For a 1450W device, converting to 110v will bring more problems than solutions IMO. the jump from 6.5A to >13A is not small.
@graf
just so you know, in europe/global appliances, you often see them labelled 240-260v 50-60Hz.
i have seen appliances labelled 110/220 working just fine in a 240 socket.
basically, the PSU needs tolerances for broad application. your only concern is the output. The existing PSU might be fine. or just buy a substitute with matchong output.
don't overcomplicate.
@internetfreak
just so you know, in europe/global appliances, you often see them labelled 240-260v 50-60Hz.
i have seen appliances labelled 110/220 working just fine in a 240 socket.
basically, the PSU needs tolerances for broad application. your only concern is the output. The existing PSU might be fine. or just buy a substitute with matchong output.
don't overcomplicate.
@internetfreak
@jeffcliff had to replace the brew group and a couple hoses. you can rebuild them but the parts to rebuild them are more than just buying the brand new unit. in specific I needed a couple springs, the piston assembly and some other parts. the spring alone would have been 54$ which is crazy
@graf My experience with alternating current is that heating elements donβt care if the voltage is lower. Try plugging in to 110v and see if still gets hot enough, timely enough.